Tuesday, 4 August 2015

The waves crash and burn. Ducking under each wave waiting for the perfect wave. Paddling mightily with every stroke of my arm. Smooth long strokes. Sitting with patients as the perfect wave rises, paddling, digging with speed. “whoo, hoo” shouts the crowd.
As there is only 3 surfers left.
slowly and steadily standing. I raised. I'm gliding along the water.
The wave shapes into a tube and I am inside. This is the type of waves that all surfers dream about, being inside a wave tube. Never wanting to escape. Crystal blue water shrouds around me. Reaching my hand out as it skims against the water. A peek of light opens at the end of the tube. The ride is over, as the wave collapse. As I come out as a winner.

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